Setup
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| Q: |
Where should I locate my MAX? |
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IMPORTANT: The location of your MAX should be decided upon in advance because, once filled with substrate, rocks and water, the aquarium must not be moved. Consider the following parameters in choosing the location.
Tank weight and support
The tank weighs about 200 kg (440lbs) when filled with water, reef base and live rock. If you choose not to use the MAX Cabinet, consider this weight when selecting an alternative aquarium support or stand. If the support you choose is not designed specifically as an aquarium stand, ensure that it can both withstand the weight and that it remains balanced and level; it should also be constructed from a material that is splash proof. The MAX, like all glass aquariums, may crack if subjected to sudden movement as a result of uneven water pressure on the glass walls.
Accessibility
When choosing a location, ensure that you have enough room to raise the main aquarium hood and remove the skimmer collection cup for regular maintenance. Make sure you can reach the power center switches located at the rear right side of the MAX and that the power center can be removed from its niche. Ensure that the area surrounding the aquarium is waterproof and consider moving away anything that water might damage.
If you plan to use a water chiller, ensure that there is least 10cm / 4" of clearance behind the MAX to allow for sufficient air circulation.
Room temperature
Site selection is important for correct temperature maintenance. We recommended that you keep the ambient room temperature a comfortable and stable 22°C / 72°F. Avoid placing the tank in front of an air conditioner, heating vents or direct sunlight. A well ventilated room with moderate light is the best place to position the aquarium.
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| Q: |
How much live rock should I use?
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As a rule, you should add 1 kg / 2.2lb of live rock per 10 liters / 2.6 gallons of tank volume.
The exact amount will vary with the type of rock you choose, but it should occupy at least forty percent of the tank volume. For the MAX this means approximately 11kg / 24lb of average density live rock.
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| Q: |
Should I use substrate?
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You can set up your reef tank with or without a substrate at the bottom. We recommend using substrate, ideally an Aragonite-based substrate as it helps keep the water chemistry balanced. As Aragonite dissolves slowly in water, it releases calcium ions and carbonates that help maintain proper pH and alkalinity for good coral growth. In an established tank, when the substrate matures, it takes on the characteristics of “live sand” inhabited by millions of microorganisms. These creatures promote a successful aquarium, aiding the biological filtration processes of nitrification, denitrification and the consumption/decomposition of uneaten food. The substrate also provides a natural habitat for small worms and crustaceans that help clean the tank from detritus and play a major role in the delicate ecosystem's food chain. We recommend using Red Sea Reef Base (included in the MAX Starter Kit).
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| Q: |
How much substrate should I use? |
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We recommend a substrate base of at least 5-7 cm (2-2.7") in depth. This depth is reached by adding to the 10kg / 22lb bag of Reef Base included in MAX Starter Kit the recommended 11kg / 24lb of live rock.
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Technical issues
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| Q: |
Why does my tank keep filling with thousands of tiny bubbles? |
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A low level of microbubbles in marine aquariums is normal and should be expected. Intense skimming is the secret of great water quality, as it both removes organic waste before it can break down AND maintains a high redox level. This is achieved by super-saturating the water with air, i.e. dissolving more gas into the water than is normal for the given temperature and pressure. Once the super-saturated water leaves the skimmer, it “relaxes” and releases the extra gas in the form of microbubbles.
However, if you think that there are too many microbubbles in your MAX, click here to download the new MAX microbubble diagnostic tool (PDF file). This step-by-step flow chart will help you to accurately diagnose the source of your microbubbles and find the correct remedy.
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| Q: |
I am having problems adjusting/fine tuning the skimmer |
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Firstly, remember that your skimmer will work only if the water contains proteins, as these proteins bind to the surface of the air bubbles and give the bubbles the structural rigidity they need to ascend the neck of the skimmer and settle in the collection cup. If your tank is clean, your skimmer cannot produce foam no matter how much you open the air inlet.
Once you’ve added live rock or fish to your MAX, it can take about an hour before the skimmer starts foaming. Start by opening the inlet valve half-way and observe what happens. After a while, you should see the top of the bubble column rise about half way up the neck of the collection cup. If the column is lower than this, open the air valve slightly; if it's higher, close it. A little later, you should see dirt starting to collect around the top of the skimmer neck and around the outside of it.
After a day or two you should see thick, dark, gunk in the collection cup, though you're not likely to get much more than dirt in and on the skimmer neck until your tank is properly stocked or you’ve added some new live rock. If you find the cup filling with bubbles or very watery waste, close the air valve slightly. If there’s thick goo in the skimmer neck but none on the outside of the neck or in the cup itself, open the air valve.
If you've just introduced live rock, or something else that’s generated a lot of organic waste in an otherwise clean tank, you might find that after a couple of days the skimmer is no longer producing foam. This means that your water is probably clean by now. Once the skimmer is consistently producing gunk, leave it running all the time - but check it regularly to keep it in tune with changing aquarium conditions.
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| Q: |
There a dirty film floating on the surface of the water. |
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The dirty film is simply detritus, or dead organic matter, that has risen to the surface of the water and is held there by surface tension. Under normal conditions, surface detritus is drawn into the filtration system. However, if your MAX is filled right up to the base of the rim (i.e. so you can't see the waterline from the outside), then the surface of the water will actually be above the level of the filter inlet grill, meaning that it does not get drawn into the filtration system. There is no easy way around this, other than to lower the water level (permanently or temporarily) so that the waterline falls to below the top of the inlet grill, or to increase surface turbulence by repositioning the powerheads.
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| Q: |
The powerheads are running but no water is passing through them. |
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This can be due to two reasons:
Airlock. During setup, small pockets of air (airlocks) can get trapped inside the impellor chamber of the powerhead, causing it to spin freely without pumping any water.
REMEDY:
1. Carefully remove each powerhead from the glass partition to which it’s attached
2. Invert the powerhead body inside the water of the chamber. Shake it gently to release the airlock
Inlet tube blockage. One of the corners of the bio media mesh bag has got sucked into the inlet of the powerhead and is blocking it.
REMEDY:
Push the bio media bag down so that its corners away from the powerhead inlet
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| Q: |
The water temperature in the aquarium is going over 27°C / 83°F |
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Check the ambient temperature in the room in which MAX is installed and see the answer to the question I live in a hot climate and I’m worried my MAX will overheat below.
Due to a lack of ventilation in your room you may find that the ambient room temperature has risen or is not in synch with the temperature in the rest of the house. If possible try to reduce the ambient temperature by increasing the ventilation in the room.
Most homes and offices are heated or air conditioned to a comfortable 22–24°C / 72-76°F so the addition of the optional rear water cooling fan should be sufficient to keep the water temperature in the desired range.
Red Sea is now offering a complete MAX Cooling Fan Kit, which includes a cooling fan, DC power adaptor and installation instructions. Please contact us for further details.
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Common questions
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| Q: |
Are the lighting and circulation in the MAX suitable for all kinds of invertebrates? |
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In long-term tests we conducted on the MAX in our laboratory, the system proved capable of supporting all soft corals (Sarcophyton sp., Lobophytum sp., Sinularia sp., Xenia; Cladiella sp., etc.), all LPSs (Large Polyp Scleractinia, like Euphyllia sp., Plerogyra sp., Nemenzophyllia sp., Trachphyllia sp., Caulestra sp., etc.), some SPSs (Small Polyp Scleractinia, such as Stylophora sp. and Seriatopora), sea anemones, all types of crustacean (cleaner shrimps, peppermint shrimps, hermit crabs, scarlet hermit crabs), sea stars and giant clams (Tridacna sp.).
The MAX was designed and equipped with a single clear objective: to make reefkeeping easier, more enjoyable and more successful for the beginner as well as the more experienced enthusiast. Compactness, ease-of-use and affordability were no less important design considerations than lighting and circulation performance.
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| Q: |
Are there any species the MAX is not suitable for? |
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Given the dimensions of the MAX, we do not recommend that you keep Tangs (Acanthuridae), Trigger fishes (Balistoididae), large angelfishes (Pomachanthidae) or butterfly fishes, due to their size and behavioral habits. We also do not recommend keeping sea horses (Hippocampus) as the circulation in the MAX is too powerful for them.
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| Q: |
Why are the Max light tubes called T5 power compacts? |
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Regular power compact lighting has a tube diameter of 6/8”, which is known as T6. T5 tubes haves a smaller diameter (5/8”) and produce a higher intensity output. The T5s used in the MAX are custom made power compacts that enable us to provide 55 watts of light in a smaller footprint than the equivalent (2 x 24 W) regular T5 tubes would provide. Regular power compact are often powered by magnetic ballasts, but the MAX T5 power compacts are powered by an electronic ballast to guarantee consistent high performance.
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| Q: |
Can I use other light tubes instead? |
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Regular power compacts will work in the MAX, however due to their tube diameter and overall length it will be difficult to fit them inside the hood. We strongly recommend using only the custom made MAX tubes.
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| Q: |
Is the skimmer used in the MAX a Prizm? |
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The MAX Turbo Skimmer is based on the effective convergent-divergent technology reaction chamber developed for the Prizm / Prizm Pro skimmers, but here it is employed in a completely new way.
The MAX Turbo Skimmer is designed to operate as an “in-aquarium” skimmer only. The skimmer pump, featuring a new air injecting impellor design, is dedicated to the job of mixing the air and water inside the skimmer - and not pushing water through the skimmer. The skimmer pump inlet is located underneath the skimmer, so it’s constantly sucking in a mixture of new water flowing through the complete filter section and recycled water that has just exited the skimmer. The air / water ratio is such that the skimming effect is far superior to that achieved by the Prizm Pro. The pump cycles the complete volume of aquarium water 3.8 times per hour through the skimmer. It is guaranteed to work, trouble-free.
For the sake of comparison, the Prizm Pro is designed as a hang-on skimmer with a single pump that must perform the dual functions of pushing water through the skimmer and injecting the air into the system. The rating of the Prizm Pro is for cycling the aquarium water once every 2 hours, which in reality is no longer in line with our current awareness and philosophy on the role of skimming in a reef aquarium.
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| Q: |
Can I make changes to the filter media? |
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The Red Sea MAX has been designed to cater for different reef aquarium filtration methodologies. In factory standard guise, the MAX includes full mechanical, chemical and biological filtration, providing the ability to stock fish and invertebrates without live rock and with a high bio load. For more advanced hobbyists who follow the naturalist “Berlin” style, which relies on live rock, live sand and efficient protein skimming and circulation, the MAX allows you the option to exchange or reduce some of the filtration media, such as replacing the bio media with crushed live rock or reducing the height or density of the sponge filter material. The filter media affect the water flow through the filter system and therefore the effects of any changes in media should be monitored carefully.
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| Q: |
Can I make changes/additions to the standard equipment? |
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Heater
The MAX heater has been manufactured with a power cord that is the correct length to fit between the heater compartment and the power control center. The head of the heater has been designed so that the thermostat settings can be seen from above; and the heater’s diameter allows it to be inserted into the heater compartment. Be sure to take these points into account when selecting a replacement heater.
Powerheads
The MAX powerheads were selected for their specific flow rate, physical dimensions and reliability. The flow rate of the pumps dictates the water flow through the entire filter system; this rate is finely balanced to ensure efficient protein skimming even when aquarium water levels drop due to evaporation. The powerheads are held in place through the smoked glass partition by custom designed adjustable outlets nozzles and the power cord length has been customized to reach the allocated outlets in the power center. If you are looking to increase the water currents within the aquarium it is best to do so by adding additional powerheads, the power cord of which can be run out of the back of the aquarium through the removable chiller access panel.
After extensive long-term testing, we found the circulation rate to be more than sufficient. We recommend that stick with the standard powerheads for the first few months of operation, giving your MAX ample time to settle and adjust to livestock levels, before adding any additional powerheads.
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| Q: |
I live in a hot climate and I’m worried my MAX will overheat. |
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For optimum conditions a reef aquarium should be maintained at a stable water temperature in the range of 24-27°C / 76-81°F - the stability of the temperature being more important than the exact value. Slightly higher temperatures can be tolerated for short periods of time as long as the change in temperature is steady and not sudden.
When the MAX is run-in, in an environment with a steady ambient temperature of 22°C / 72°F or below, no cooling is necessary. In an ambient temperature from 23–25°C / 73-77°F, the optional water cooling fan at the back of the aquarium will keep the aquarium water below 27°C / 81°F. If the ambient temperature is above 26°C / 78°F a water chiller of approximately 1/10 HP should be used.
It is important to consider the ventilation in the room where the MAX is to be kept as the hood is fan cooled and expels the heat generated from the light tubes into the room. In a closed room without ventilation, the ambient temperature can slowly rise.
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